Ideally we’d all keep our composure in stressful situations. We’d remember that the fuel for explosive emotional responses is already stockpiled within us. But how often are things ideal? Sometimes it’s rather impossible not to focus our rage on an external tormentor - the spark, as it were. And when that happens, the fallout is more safely contained if we can identify an external tormentor other than our partner.

The same goes for working partnerships. Despite repeated assertions that “I can either be nice or make good food,” Mac and I have always been pretty good at maintaining a united front against any (mostly my) perceived tormentors: customers, owners, servers, line cooks, misaligned plastic wrap dispensers, stubborn oysters, finicky salsa macha recipes, etc.

There is, however, another remedy: snacks. Chef snacks boost morale. They also have the special ability to create a moment, a pocket dimension of solidarity, where everyone can take a breath, appreciate a tasty bite, smooth out the brain wrinkles, and refocus on doing the next right thing. It only takes a few seconds, but the ripple effect is lasting.

Once during a brief lull in dinner service, Mac and I both stopped to observe one of our new line cooks assembling an epic monstrosity of a snack. If I recall correctly, it involved mayonnaise, cheese, and mashed potatoes all piled atop a piece of heavily buttered toast. Needless to say, we were impressed. Eventually he noticed that he was being observed. “What?” he said defensively. “This is my one snack for the night.”

Mac and I looked at each other, both deeply distraught by this revelation. “What do you mean, one snack?!” Rest assured, he soon learned that chef snacks would appear by his station at more or less hourly intervals. “In this house, we believe in an entirely treat-based motivational system.”

The key to a good chef snack? You’ve gotta have things to put things on. That means good sourdough, pita, crackers, chips, and the like. Vegetable vehicles also work, like radish rounds and other crudités, but I’m biased in favor of carbohydrate-based delivery systems. This week we’re kicking off another collaboration with our friends at Drifters Fish by serving smoked black cod dip with shaved horseradish and seeded rye crackers.

When prep is running long, a grazing table can be a lifesaver. A few weeks ago, one of my clients texted me around noon, asking if I could put together a dinner that evening. (To be clear, they would’ve been totally cool if I had said no, but I was available and wanted to make it happen.) Once on site, I put out some spreads - hummus, muhammara, and a seasoned labneh - along with focaccia and cucumber rounds. This bought me an extra hour before service.

The aforementioned spreads are a pared down version of a mezze table we’ve used for weddings (though I did buy focaccia from Sea Wolf instead of making flatbreads - curating is also part of cooking!) No matter the specifics, the framework is simple: things, plus things to put things on. If you can organize the table in a rustic, seemingly-scattered fashion which also incorporates a vertical element, that’s absolute perfection.

Mac’s all-time favorite chef snack is really good anchovies and butter on bread. Also Tim’s jalapeño chips. I’d love to contribute something more original, but really any form of potato chip is a pretty strong contender. When I’m on the grill, I like siphoning off little steak bites until I have enough for everyone.

What’s your favorite chef snack?

We’re glad you’re cooking with us.

Cheers,

Sten and Mac