Self-Taught
I’ve heard people say they’re self-taught. But is anyone really? Maybe it’s true if you’re a retired lawyer who’s taken up woodworking. Maybe you just read some books, watched some YouTube videos, and got to varnishing - zero mentorship factor. But surely even such an esteemed esquire had at least a few conversations with the folks at the hardware store.
But I’m not really talking about hobbies to reconnect us to the tangible. I’m talking about how we acquire professional-level skills. I would argue that regardless of whether a person has been formally educated in a given vocation, it is not possible to achieve professional competence without apprenticeship or mentorship. That is to say, no one is self-taught.
I did not go to culinary school. Neither did Mac. We both had a whole host of mentors - competent professionals who graciously trained us and put up with our growing pains. The list of chefs, sous chefs, and other colleagues to whom I owe a thank-you reads like the acknowledgements section of a novel.
To be clear, I love reading. There is incredible knowledge available for those who take the time to delve into the meticulously-researched written works of the world. But, no book will ever be able to teach you the most important skill in any workplace, which is how to be.
My biggest training ground was a north Seattle favorite called Brouwer’s Cafe (RIP). I worked there for four years. It was a cavernous Belgian beerhall with no less than sixty-four taps. Bobby Tague was the chef for the majority of the restaurant’s nineteen-year run. From walk-in twenty tops of Googlers at lunchtime to an endless parade of jam-packed beer festivals, he knew how to leverage every single inch out of that kitchen.
Brouwer’s Cafe served bar food. It was the best, scratch-prepared bar food you’ll find anywhere. The reason the kitchen could churn out house-made sausages, brothy steamed mussels, and perfectly crisp frites at a massive scale was due to incredibly low staff turnover. Everyone knew what to do without being asked. It really was like a dance. Cooks weren’t attached to their stations as they often are in higher-end kitchens. If service had a slow start, maybe one cook held down the line while everyone else prepped up. When dinner picked up, one or two more cooks hopped on the line. When things died down, someone hopped off to plug some holes. It felt like a living organism.
No matter which kitchen, it takes a while to learn the steps. It doesn’t matter if you know how to cook, if you have some aptitude. You have to watch the pros in action. You have to immerse yourself, fail, and have them bail you out. You have to try again.
This story begs the question: would all this have been easier if I’d just gone to culinary school? To answer this question more broadly, Mac has written a new article discussing the pros and cons of a diploma in the kitchen.
This week we’re serving a refreshing melon and cucumber salad with fish sauce vinaigrette. Don’t let the fish sauce throw you off: it’s one of our favorite sources of liquid umami. Here it provides a savory anchor to balance the sweetness, and the end result remains oh so refreshing and summery.
We’re glad you’re cooking with us.
Cheers,
Sten and Mac

