Improvising Sauces
In music, there’s a finite number of components. Even the most complex arrangement is built on twelve notes. Improvisation is not about taking wild shots in the dark. It’s about knowing chord progressions and patterns so you can play variations on a theme.
This week’s Meal Plan features a delightful plum barbeque sauce. You should make it. It’s very forgiving, and it’s a perfect template for trying your hand at improvisation.
Barbeque sauces, especially the famous regional varieties, often inspire dogmatic reverence, but Mac and I don’t usually treat it that way. Rather, we use the ingredients we have on hand. Substitute freely within these component categories: body, sweet, sour, umami, and spicy.
Body. For a thick puree, we need texture. One of my chefs told me that the key to barbeque is caramelized onions and roasted garlic, not tomatoes. Try it with and without and see what you think. Chilis are also good for adding body. I often use red bells or anchos (dried poblanos).
Sweet. Plums are the marquee ingredient for this one, though any stone fruit would be magical. Molasses traditionally makes an appearance (often via brown sugar), with its obsidian color and unique tang. There’s also honey, maple syrup, and agave.
Sour. Apple cider vinegar is the standard, but try any variety. Focus on balancing sweet and sour. One-to-one is a good place to start. Let your taste buds be the judge. Always be tasting.
Umami. Tomatoes are popular for a reason: they provide both body and umami. We can also accomplish this through dried (concentrated) chili peppers, Worcestershire sauce (anchovies), and soy sauce or miso (fermentation).
Spicy. Fresh chilies, hot sauce (which also supplies vinegar), chili flakes. You can do it.
We have our basic components. Here’s the basic pattern: one, bloom, caramelize, or roast your aromatics and spices. Two, blend everything until it’s very smooth. Three, cook it down, low and slow, until your sauce reaches the desired consistency. Add salt at the end. Go, go, go!
We’re glad you’re cooking with us.
Cheers,
Sten and Mac
Chef Snacks
Cooking Tip
Brown butter is a great way to boost flavor. Whenever a recipe calls for melted butter, consider taking it one step further to brown. It’s already on the range, so take advantage of that great nutty brown flavor. Once melted, keep cooking the butter until the solids begin to turn brown. Stir often. Use your nose: that nutty aroma is the best doneness indicator. A medium heat is best because brown becomes burned rather quickly.
Plum BBQ Sauce Recipe
Yield: 1 quart
INGREDIENTS
2 yellow onions, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon neutral oil
6 garlic cloves, smashed
¾ cup apple cider vinegar
¾ cup brown sugar
¼ cup tomato paste
2 tablespoons white soy sauce (sub: shio koji or tamari)
4 medium plums
2 tablespoons chipotle chiles in adobo
2 dried ancho chiles, seeded
DIRECTIONS
Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onions and cook for 15-20 minutes, until caramelized. Add the garlic and cook for a few minutes more, until soft.
Transfer the onions and garlic to a blender, along with the remaining ingredients. Blend until very smooth. Transfer back to the pot.
Bring the sauce to a simmer, and cook it down gently until it reaches your desired consistency. Taste for salt and adjust.
