Fresh Herbs
I used to skip the fresh herbs. Trying to simplify an involved recipe, garnishes are an easy cut. Half the bunch just decomposes in the crisper anyway, so what’s the point?
My attitude changed when I started working on farms. Looking at herbs in the field, leafy plants alongside the lettuces, I started to see them as salad greens in their own right. I’ll say it again: Italian parsley, cilantro, mint, and dill are salad greens.
I’m not big on chopping herbs for garnishing. Chopped and dusted, they become little more than green sparkles stuck in your teeth. If you must chop, use a sharp knife. Do your best to go over them only once (to avoid bruising). Line them up like green onions, and slice them finely.
If we’re not going to chop our herbs, though, what should we do?
Use whole leaves. The finer the restaurant, the more time spent picking herbs. The only hack is chatting with a coworker while you do it. Once picked, toss them into salads (try gem lettuce, mint, and pea shoots) or scatter them over dishes like fried rice. A whole leaf creates a pop of freshness that a chopped fragment cannot. Leaves create lightness, as well as visual appeal.
Let them breathe. First, be gentle when you wash herbs. Second, let them dry. Towels are your friend. Wet, crammed in a plastic bag, herbs rot in short order. Once you spin (or shake) off as much water as possible, store them loosely in a sealed container lined with paper towels (or clean cloth ones). If the towels get wet, change them.
Make sauces. Sauces are the answer to the chopped herb problem. Chimichurri and chermoula are great options. Herbs, olive oil, acid, and salt. Experiment with spice profiles. You can chop your herbs by hand or use a food processor. Add vinegar (or citrus) just before service, as it will dull the vibrant green color.
The stems have flavor, too. Their texture is often fibrous, though, so make sure to slice them very thinly. Cilantro stems are a favorite candidate for this treatment. A classic move is using the leaves whole and reserving the stems for sauces, stocks, and poaching liquids.
We’re glad you’re cooking with us.
Cheers,
Sten and Mac
Chef Snacks
Cooking Tip
Use a salad spinner. While there’s no hack for picking herbs, there is one for washing and drying them. Seriously, it’s like handing a cell phone to someone who’s only ever had access to a carrier pigeon. Buy this one. It’s one of the few retail items used in professional kitchens.
Green Garlic Chimichurri Recipe
The essential elements are the herbs, oil, and vinegar. I like green garlic, but one regular clove would also work. Use chili flakes if you don’t feel like charring jalapeños.
2 bunches parsley
1 bunch cilantro
2 stalks green garlic, tops only (reserve the bottoms for your next saute)
2 jalapenos
½ c extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
½ teaspoon salt
Char the jalapeños over an open flame (or grill) until blackened. Transfer them to a bowl and cover them with a lid to steam. Once cool, remove the seeds and stems. Peel away the charred skins and discard. Don’t stress about getting every last bit. (Gloves are recommended, or at least, wash your hands thoroughly before rubbing your eyes.)
Put everything in a food processor (it’s best to chop the herbs into a few sections first, just so the stems don’t get stuck) and pulse until you get a coarse sauce. Coarser or finer is up to you. Taste for salt and acidity, and adjust. If the mixture seems tight, you can add a little water to loosen it up.
