Eggplant
Raw eggplant feels like damp styrofoam. Cooking causes the flesh to collapse, absorbing all the oil in its vicinity. The finished product, done properly, is almost custardy. Where’s the sweet spot? The most important thing when cooking eggplant is knowing what you’re trying to achieve.
Burnt mush. Eggplant is great for making sauces, and burnt mush is the way. Poke the eggplant all over with a fork (so it doesn’t explode). Char it over an open flame until completely blackened. Let it drain into a colander to cool, then scoop the flesh from the charred skins. To avoid a watery sauce, continue draining the eggplant (or save time with a salad spinner). Now it’s ready to puree. See the recipe below for baba ganouj - our favorite application of eggplant mush.
Grilled and marinated. Roast and dress. A hot oven is good, but a grill is best. Either way, intense heat creates the smokiness and char that’s essential for eggplant. Whether cut into rounds, cubes, or spears, limit the thickness to about an inch. This will help the eggplant cook evenly and quickly, ensuring a creamy texture. Dress the finished product with balsamic vinegar and olive oil.
Sweating is unnecessary. You’ve probably heard this instruction ad nauseum: score the eggplant, salt generously, wait thirty minutes to sweat out moisture, and pat dry. This technique can be helpful when browning eggplant in a pan, but generally we find it superfluous. If a custardy and creamy texture is the end goal, sweating will not help or hinder the journey.
Brush, don’t drizzle. Eggplant is a sponge. Oil drizzled over the top will penetrate unevenly and create soggy pockets. Use a pastry brush to apply oil in a light, even coat.
Glossy and firm. Choose an eggplant that feels heavy for its size. Shiny, firm skin is a good indicator of health. Avoid eggplants that are overly hard or very saggy.
Eggplant harvest starts midsummer and ends in the early fall. Mac and I particularly love Japanese eggplant for its delicate, bright purple skin and minimal seeds.
We’re glad you’re cooking with us.
Cheers,
Sten and Mac
Chef Snacks
Cooking Tip
Get a silicon baking mat. We do a lot of roasting on sheet trays. There’s nothing wrong with parchment paper, but baking mats wipe clean like a dream. Silpat is a great option. They sell them at Culinary Essentials on Ballard Avenue.
Baba Ganouj
1 large eggplant
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 tablespoon tahini
1 garlic clove
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
Pierce the eggplant several times with a fork. Char it on a grill until blackened. Let it cool in a colander set over a sink or bowl.
Scoop the flesh from the charred skin (and discard the skin). Continue draining for at least an hour (or speed up the process using a salad spinner).
Blend the eggplant with the lemon, tahini, and garlic. Slowly drizzle in the olive oil to emulsify. Salt to taste.
