Beets Taste Like Dirt
Beets taste a little bit like dirt. We might also say that beets have a complex earthiness which balances their sweetness. There are no bad topics, just bad writers.
Our job as chefs is to elevate ingredients, to discover the best cooking techniques and flavor companions to showcase their best selves. At the same time, we can’t undo an ingredient’s essence. We work with the ingredients, not against them.
On some level, you have to like a thing for what it is, not what you wish it was. And roots spend their lives growing in the dirt.
Associations are also part of what a thing is. I have a strong memory of jars of pickled beets set in rows, dimly lit by a single light bulb on the cedar shelves of my grandmother’s root cellar. With a vinegary punch, warm spices, and the natural sweetness of the beets (boosted by some extra sugar), we ate them like candy alongside dark rye bread and sharp cheddar.
Taste is only a small part of flavor. It’s also aroma, texture, color and visual appeal, temperature. The flavor of food is affected by the environment in which it’s eaten, the experience of eating, whether it’s in the present or the past. A flavor tied to a positive memory will always taste good.
Beets require some coaxing to show their best selves. Tenderizing them involves breaking down rock-like cell structures, either by blade or by heat. Like celeriac, beets can be eaten raw if we slice them thin enough. Save raw preparations for milder, sweeter types like chioggia.
Most often we roast our beets. Peel and cut them into bite-sized pieces, followed by a hard roast (400°F or above). The resulting caramelization creates a smoky, crispy exterior to balance the sweet, soft interior. Use plenty of oil so they don’t dry out. This week we continue our postpartum series with easy-to-store veggie wraps of roasted beets, spiced chickpeas, and kale served with green tahini.
For the tenderest texture, braising whole is the way to go. Use a cake tester: they’re done when it meets no resistance. Let the beets cool for a minute, then use your hands to slip the skins off. For the best of both smokiness and tender texture, try steaming and then finishing on the grill.
We’re glad you’re cooking with us.
Cheers,
Sten and Mac
KITCHEN TIP
Beet tops and chard are the same thing. Put another way, chard leaves and beetroots are the top and bottom of the same plant. The grocery store versions, however, are different cultivars bred to prioritize their respective characteristics. The leaves atop your bunched beets are just a bit less voluminous than their carefully selected counterparts. Use beet tops anywhere you would use chard (sauteed or wilted are great places to start).
