Where’s the Beef?
I’ve got beef. I spend a decent amount of time at the meat counter of my local co-op, surveying the protein options. If I weren’t paying close attention, I might think ribeyes and New York strips were the only two cuts a cow has to offer. So my question is actually more specific: “Where’s the rest of the beef?”
Before we explore, let’s consider why these two steaks are so popular. The ribeye and the New York are cut from the rib and the short loin, respectively, both of which are located in the upper middle section of the torso. It’s a low exertion area. The less work a muscle does, the more marbled and tender the cut.
These primal cuts have consistent geometry, so they’re easier to cook evenly. They have fine grains, so they don’t get stringy when sliced incorrectly. This is all to say, they’re harder to mess up. But no risk, no reward! With a little extra care, the butcher’s cuts - the ones the butchers and chefs cook for themselves - are even better.
Hanger. It’s my absolute favorite. Buttery tender with bold flavor. There’s an inedible membrane running down the center, which, once removed, creates portions like thick ropes. Hangers have a coarse, well-defined grain. It’s vital to slice them against the grain, lest they get stringy. Cook them with a hard sear and finish medium-rare (they’re thick, so this usually takes awhile).
Bavette. Also called sirloin flap, it comes from the cow’s abdomen, another low exertion area. The mouthfeel and grain are similar to the hanger. Bavettes are thin and flat, so medium-rare arrives very quickly on a hot grill. Don’t leave them unattended.
Tri-tip. A triangular-shaped cut at the very bottom of the bottom sirloin, tri-tip is both pleasantly lean and well-marbled. Note the grain, which shifts due to the cut’s v-shape. To maximize the tenderness of a lean cut: never cook beyond medium-rare (good advice for any steak).
Chuck. Not every cut is a steak! Chuck comes from the neck and shoulder - a high exertion muscle group. It’s full of beefy goodness, but it requires 3-4 hours of long, slow cooking to break down the collagen and tenderize. Braising is the way. This week we’re braising beef chuck in the style of galbi-jjim and serving it with rice, kimchi, and quick-pickled cucumbers.
Cheers,
Sten and Mac
KITCHEN TIP
Cut your meat against the grain. I know I’m repeating myself, but seriously now. There are three ways to tenderize meat. One is cooking until the muscle fibers break down. Two is letting salt unspool the proteins (brining). The third is physically severing the muscle fibers. Identifying the grain, and thinly slicing against it, is the easiest way to ensure the meats you serve are as tender as possible.
PURVEYOR SPOTLIGHT
Beast and Cleaver. If you live in or round Seattle, we’re home to one of the country’s premier butcher shops. They specialize in whole animal butchery, so be ready for a conversation about what you’re looking for and what they’ve cut fresh that day.
Preservation Meat Collective. Our favorite purveyor for ethical, locally-sourced protein. Unless you’re catering a wedding, you probably can’t buy from them directly, but look for them on your restaurant menus. Support them through your dining choices.They go to monumental effort to bring us the best meats in the Pacific Northwest.
