Filling
Pie may start with the crust, but in the end, it’s all about what’s inside. In stark contrast to the short list of ingredients for dough, we can fill a pie with almost anything.
Whether it’s sweet or savory, veggie or meat, fruit or custard, the most important consideration when creating a pie filling is consistency. We’re not trying to fill a bread bowl with clam chowder.
On the other hand, a filling doesn’t have to be completely solid - a little “molten flow” is nice. Think about how the filling will behave after cooling and reheating: it’s always thicker.
Thickeners. Most fillings require a binding agent. My default is all-purpose flour (since we’re already using it for the crust). For a classic covered apple pie, I incorporate flour into the filling and, before covering it, distribute little cubes of butter across the top. As the butter melts, it combines with the flour, acting like a roux. Cornstarch is another fine option.
How much thickener? It depends on the filling. High pectin fruits like apple and quince thicken more on their own. Low pectin fruits like stone fruit and berries require more. For savory pies, consider the filling’s sauciness relative to any natural starches. Potatoes and beans deliver thickening power. For a standard pie plate, ¼ cup thickener is a good baseline.
Cooking first. There’s no one-size-fits-all answer. Speaking very broadly, precook savory fillings and bake fruit fillings from raw. While we don’t often precook our fruit, premixing and allowing the filling to macerate for a few hours helps create cohesion. Savory pies are often dense, like brothless stews. Precooking mitigates problems with undercooked proteins (and sturdy vegetables). This week we’re making a wild mushroom pie. Recipe drops on Friday.
Mystery filling. Years ago, back in Chicago, long before I took an active interest in food, my friend Jenny made a corn, tomato, and cheddar pie. It blew my mind. Until that moment, the only savory pie in my universe was chicken pot pie - the kind you buy frozen in a little box.
Sometimes one dish unlocks a pathway. One experience reveals a constellation where before had only been a big mess of sparkly dots. Being a good cook isn’t just practice and herculean effort. It’s also enjoying food, trying new dishes, and relaxing enough to delight in surprise.
So many cooks beat themselves up for not being perfect. But where’s the fun if we always know how the food is gonna turn out? It’s from the unexpected that we learn the things worth knowing.
We’re glad you’re cooking with us.
Merry Christmas,
Sten and Mac
KITCHEN TIP
Finish the top crust with granulated sugar. When making a double-crust pie, after applying the egg wash, use a spoon to dust the top crust with sugar (or a sugar-spice mixture). Your pie will sparkle like Edward Cullen. This applies to things like muffins and quick breads, too.
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