Bones
Homemade is always better. Even in the food world, this principle isn’t exactly universal (French fries and dry cappuccinos come to mind), but when it comes to stocks and broths, the proof is in the gelatin.
Making stock is simmering ingredients in water to extract their flavor. The more flavorful the ingredients, the more depth in the stock.
There’s a host of different ingredients we can use for making stock. Parmesan rinds, kombu (we love dashi), dried mushrooms, most vegetable scraps, leftover roasted turkey bones (hint hint). Bones are particularly valuable for their gelatinous thickening power.
Meat versus bones. Collagen is the key. It’s found in the bones themselves as well as the cartilage and tendons surrounding them. When simmered for long periods of time, collagen breaks down into gelatin. The marrow contributes richness and depth, but the majority of the flavor comes from any remaining meat scraps. The best stocks use both meat and bones.
Using scraps versus buying bones. It feels great to use up scraps. I like roasting whole chickens so I have the carcasses for stock. However, scraps are scraps - they’re less consistent. If I need chicken stock but don’t have bones on hand, I buy a couple packs of chicken wings. They’re inexpensive, and the combination of meat and collagen creates a fantastically rich stock.
Keep the flavors simple. Stocks and broths work in the background. The goal is depth without muddling. For chicken stock, Mac and I usually just use bones and meat. But herbs are fun, and roasted onions and ginger are delicious, so…just err on the side of simplicity. You can always add more flavors later.
A brief broth instructional:
Roast the bones and meat before adding water. Browning will deepen the flavor of the final broth. Try 375°F for 45-60 minutes, until a rich golden brown develops.
Add enough water to cover the ingredients and provide a little wiggle room. If you like measuring, a good starting point is 1 pound of bones and meat to 1 quart of water.
Bring to a simmer and reduce the heat so that only a few bubbles are rising up. How long? Follow your taste buds, but here are some rough estimates: veggie (2 hours), chicken (4 hours), and beef (12-24 hours).
Strain the stock and discard the bones. Store in the fridge for up to four days or in the freezer for several months. Pint containers are a good size for freezing.
Bone broth is a gimmicky term invented to assure you that your store-bought broth is made from actual bones instead of whatever “organic chicken flavor” is.
But homemade is always better. It’s not just about avoiding the cheap mystery flavorings. There’s no gelatin in the store-bought stuff, nothing to create body in your soup. It’s just yellow water. You’d be better off dissolving a few tablespoons of bouillon.
We’re glad you’re cooking with us.
Cheers,
Sten and Mac
Chef Snacks
Cooking Tip
Cool the broth to skim off the fat. While bones and meat simmer, fat renders and rises to the surface. A bit of fat in the final broth is nice, but too much can lead to a greasy mouthfeel. The easiest way to remove fat is after it cools in the fridge overnight. Reserve the schmaltz (chicken fat) or tallow (beef fat) for roasting potatoes.
Purveyor Spotlight
Beast & Cleaver. We’re lucky enough to have one of the premier butcher shops in the country right here in Seattle. If you’re looking for bones, the best place to start is at your local butcher. Grocery stores will often have them in the frozen section. Just make sure to defrost before roasting and starting your broth.
