Mushrooms
Mushrooms are wild. Hallucinogenic, poisonous, and prone to materializing overnight, it’s no wonder these organisms feature prominently in global folklore. And that’s just the fungi. There’s also the adjacent community of foragers and the closely-guarded knowledge of where to hunt these amazing ingredients.
Cultivated versus wild. A classic dichotomy between consistency and potential. A controlled environment provides safety, uniformity, year-round access, and reduced cost. They do, however, lose a bit of magic: cultivated mushrooms are milder in flavor.
Wild mushrooms are renowned for their robust, complex flavors. Many prized varieties like morels, porcini, and chanterelles are only found in the wild. Limited, seasonal availability and skilled, labor-intensive hunting carry an expensive price tag.
Chanterelle. Firm, meaty, and a little chewy with a fruity, lightly peppery flavor, not to mention that classic golden hue. They love a sauté, which is why we’re featuring them this week on our mushroom toast. Recipe dropping on Friday. Also it’s peak chanterelle season in the PNW.
Crimini. Widely available and a great workhorse. Also known as baby bellas, they’re the same species as portabellos, harvested while immature. They have a mild forest flavor.
Maitake. They grow in large clusters, with frilly, wavy caps. They’re a great presentation choice. Roast them whole on high heat so all the delicate ridges get deliciously crispy.
Morels. A springtime delicacy with an unparalleled nutty flavor. Choose morels that are firm, and keep them dry. Clean them with a pastry brush, as their latticed surface tends to hide a few bugs. Enjoy them pan-seared on high heat with butter, garlic, and shallots.
Shiitake. One of the strongest flavors, shiitakes are rich and smoky. Their texture can be fibrous and chewy, though, so we favor dried shiitakes. Rehydrated, they have a silky texture.
Speaking of rehydrating, if you have difficulty with the texture of mushrooms but still want that great umami flavor boost, try infusing dried mushrooms into stocks and soups.
We’re glad you’re cooking with us.
Cheers,
Sten and Mac
Chef Snacks
Cooking Tip
Don’t crowd the pan. This is always true, but it’s especially true for sauteing and searing mushrooms. They’re just little sponges of mostly water. If they don’t have enough space, they’ll steam themselves into a soggy slop.
Select mushrooms that are firm and dry - they’re already wet on the inside, so if they’re wet or slimy on the outside, they’ll never brown or get crispy.
Purveyor Spotlight
Adam’s Mushrooms. If you’re looking for fresh or dried mushrooms in the South Sound, give Mac’s old chef buddy Tim a holler. You can find them at the Proctor Farmer’s Market in Tacoma or various grocery stores in the area. They also sell dried mushrooms and tinctures on their website.
Book Club
The Mushroom at the End of the World: On the Possibility of Life in Capitalist Ruins by Anna Lowenhaupt Tsing. An anthropological study of how the prized matsutake mushroom thrives in the wake of ecological destruction, examining the relationship between humans, fungi, and capitalism. Pick up a copy at our local gem, Elliot Bay Book Co, or at your public library.
