Black Cod
The ocean is terrifying, especially for flatlanders like me who only understand quadrupeds and vegetables growing in neat rows. The longer I live by the Pacific Ocean, though, the more I realize it’s worth wading into the unknown.
But let’s not dive straight down to pufferfish. Approachable, delicious, and widely available (love it when that happens), black cod is an essential fish for every cook.
Black cod (aka sablefish) has a smooth, buttery flavor equally suited for carrying delicate and strong seasonings. It’s so fatty and tender that it needs only a bit of salt, maybe a squeeze of lemon. That very same firm-but-not-tough texture also provides a perfect canvas for punchy flavors. We often pair it with miso-based glazes or spice rubs like za’atar and berbere.
The high fat content also makes it very difficult to overcook (that’s not a challenge). I like a classic high-heat pan sear to crisp the skin, followed by a brief finish in a warm oven (300℉). Mac favors a simple, speedy oven roast (6-8 minutes at around 425℉).
Black cod comes with a challenge: removing the pinbones. It’s pretty much impossible, actually, so instead we use a technique called a v-cut. It requires a sharp knife. Let’s walk through it.
Use your finger to find the line of bones that runs down the filet. Slice along either side of it, as close to the bones as possible. Cut all the way down to the skin but not through it. (After you remove the strip of bones, the skin will be the only thing holding it together.) If the bones don’t release easily, you may have to angle your knife further inward to scrape against the skin. Once you remove this strip, your filet will look like two sections of a hinge. That’s okay. As soon as it hits the pan, the flesh and skin will tighten up, making it appear as a unified filet.
Don’t stress! This takes practice, but the stakes are very low. Worst case scenario, you cut through the skin and end up with two smaller filets that cook faster. Delicious.
It’s also a relatively sustainable seafood selection. Black cod mature and reproduce quickly, and especially if you’re sourcing from Alaska or the PNW, the fishery is well managed.
We’re glad you’re cooking with us.
Cheers,
Sten and Mac
Chef Snacks
Cooking Tip
Find a fishmonger you like. For obvious reasons, this will be harder in some places than others. For those who are hopelessly landlocked, it’s worth asking the chef at your favorite restaurant where they source from.
A good fish market is a fantastic resource. They can tell you what’s in season and what’s good that day. Buying whole fish is cheaper, and they will filet them for you (and pack up the bones for stock). They’ll probably v-cut your black cod. Just ask.
If you’re in Seattle, there are many options. Mac and I usually buy from Wild Salmon Seafood Market in Fisherman’s Terminal.
Purveyor Spotlight
Villa Jerada. It all starts with harissa: Morocco’s signature condiment. Villa Jerada is a spice purveyor based in Seattle, specializing in Moroccan and Levantine flavors and blends. Their vadouvan blend is wonderful. We also particularly love their za’atar spice blend and urfa biber.
