Rhubarb
Mac’s mom’s high school biology teacher said the reason we have belly buttons is so we can fill them with sugar and dip our rhubarb while lounging. This could be the most Wisconsin thing I’ve ever heard. If it’s anything like Minnesota, I assume this lounging takes place in an Adirondack chair on the dock by the lake. I must say I feel pretty good about it.
Regardless of whether you find this assessment illuminating or horrifying, it does illustrate a common assumption: rhubarb needs sugar, or more broadly, rhubarb is a dessert ingredient.
No one’s taking away your rhubarb pies and Danishes. But let’s talk about how it can brighten up your savory preparations. Botanically-speaking, it’s a vegetable anyway.
Tart, crunchy, and juicy: think of it as sour celery. Mellow it out with sugar if you like, but either way, rhubarb is a wonderful balance for richness and fat. Slice it thinly, and use it raw in salads and relishes. Cook it down as a glaze or sauce for proteins like pork or chicken. It’s also a great candidate for quick pickling.
Rhubarb is over 90% water. This puts it in the same culinary category as cucumbers and celery (what I like to call “green water structures”). Again, think salad. If you prefer to soften your rhubarb for a sauce or dressing, macerate it with a little sugar or salt to draw out moisture and break it down. From there, you can whisk it with other ingredients or cook it down further.
Avoid the roots and leaves. Only the stalks are edible. To be clear, you’d have to eat about ten pounds of rhubarb leaves to really hurt yourself, but still…leave the leaves in the garden.
Rhubarb requires both rain and cold weather, so it thrives in northern climates (no wonder it’s a Scandinavian classic). Hothouse rhubarb is one of the first plants harvested in the spring, while outdoor rhubarb is available throughout the summer. The PNW and the upper Midwest account for the majority of US rhubarb production, so it’s a great way to support your local farmers.
We’re glad you’re cooking with us.
Cheers,
Sten and Mac
Chef Snacks
Cooking Tip
Soak vermicelli noodles. Rice vermicelli noodles are delicate. You can definitely boil them like pasta, but the window between done and mushy is very narrow. For a much calmer approach, put them in a bowl and cover them with hot tap water. Let them sit for 15 minutes while you prep other ingredients.
After you drain them, you can either rinse them in cold water for a salad (or summer rolls) or toss them straight into the pan for your stir fry.
Purveyor Spotlight
Salmonberry Goods. Speaking of rhubarb, one of our favorite sources of delectable, seasonal pastries is Salmonberry Goods. They are bakers who care deeply about rebuilding our food system through hyperlocal sourcing. They offer a number of subscriptions for baked goods, produce, and all things local for delivery in Seattle. Or drop by their new brick and mortar in Crown Hill: Salmonberry Green Grocer. Last time we were there they had an incredible rhubarb hand pie!
